Tarnow - A Galician Treasure
Travellers pulling into Tarnow station will be met by a voluptuous turn-of-the-century building from the times of Habsburg Galicia. This lovely old building is actually in a rather tatty state (like a good deal of Tarnow itself). But here lies much of the city's charm. For unlike Cracow, the bus-loads of tourists have not yet descended. You can still explore the place without the dizzying air of unreality that accompanies boom cities like big sister Cracow. It's a sleepy spot with much to recommend it. That said, if you want to see Tarnow before the prices go through the roof, best come sooner rather than later, as the town's obvious charms will not remain undiscovered for long.
Above: Tarnow Rynek (Market Square), with its typical Renaissance attics.
Getting There
Transport to Tarnow is more than easy if you're coming from Cracow. Just jump on a train or bus from the main station. However, locals steadfastly recommend train over bus, owing to endless road-works, which show no sign of abating. Train tickets cost 20 zl and the journey lasts about an hour and a half. Once at Tarnow Glowny (Tarnow Main Station), walk north east up ul. Krakowska. It's about ten minutes to the centre of town.
The Town
Official promo bumph hails Tarnow as a 'pearl of the Renaissance'. Although much of the town exudes the classic air of nineteenth century Galicia, many of Tarnow's finest monuments were indeed raised during the Renaissance. The Rynek, or Market Square, is one of the prettiest in Poland, and this against some fairly stiff competition. Here you'll find the ornate parapets so typical of the Polish Renaissance - they were used to hide steep-pitched roofs, a necessity in this snowy neck of the woods. However, Tarnow's origins stretch back well beyond the age of Copernicus. Wander around the back of the gothic cathedral, and you'll find yourself transported back to medieval times. Stepping inside, you'll be met by the tallest sepulchral monument in all Europe, a spirited confection that honours the Tarnowski family - the city was their private property for several centuries.
Jewish Tarnow
The eastern part of the Old Town was traditionally the Jewish district. Indeed, almost half of the town's pre-war population was of Jewish origin. The maze of narrow streets around ul. Zydowska, (Jewish Street) are amongst the most atmospheric in Tarnow, but history dealt some horrific blows here. Most of the synagogues were torched by the Nazis, and the solitary, battered bimah of the Old Synagogue survives as a haunting relic of the Hebrew community. Beyond the Old Town, you can still find the evocative Old Jewish Cemetery at ul. Szpitalna. It's absolutely worth the walk.
Beyond the Old Town
Tarnow is a fairly compact place, but there are one or two gems beyond the immediate centre, and all are in easy walking distance. Aside from the aforementioned Jewish cemetery, which is one of the most valued in the region, two gothic wooden churches can be tracked down, the Holy Trinity (ul. Tuchowska ) and St. Mary's (ul. Panny Marii). A clutch of Poland's wooden churches were recently added to the UNESCO list, and they count amongst the country's greatest treasures. For romantic souls, the Old Graveyard at ul. Narutowicza is also worth a look. And back on ul. Krakowska, the Ethnographic Museum has an intriguing exhibition about Polish gypsies. Slip out the back and you'll find a host of painted caravans.
Food and Drink
Many of the restaurants in nearby Cracow offer style over substance, luring travellers in with a pretty decor (and then charging pretty overblown prices). In Tarnow, restaurants are obliged to win over local custom, which means less of the Disney factor. There's not an overwhelming amount of choice, but a standout is the old-fashioned Tatrzanska,which offers well-cooked fare in a classic Galician atmosphere. They often have a lunch menu for 15 zloties. A more adventurous choice would be Ke Maro (ul. Zydowska), a genuine Gypsy number. Service is charming and the tucker more than tasty. That said, there's a definite air of David Lynch about the place, so this is probably not your family choice.
The Official Tarnow Website