European Heritage Days: The Second Annual Open House Day in Podgorze (25th-26th September 2004).
The oft-overlooked district of Podgorze opens its doors to all comers this weekend with a range of exhibitions, guided tours and one-off events.
Given the considerable attractions of the district, it's a wonder that it's not already more visited by Cracovians and travellers alike - it's a richly rewarding part of town to explore, with splendid architecture and a fascinating history. A Kazimierz like renaissance is not unlikely - in some respects it's already well underway.
On Sunday there will be two events of especial interest to English speaking travellers. The first is a guided walk through the district, taking in all the gems of Podgorze's architecture, as well as the burial mound of the legendary founder of Cracow, which boasts a magnificent view over the city. The walk will also be peppered with insights into the tumultuous era of the wartime Jewish ghetto. The Meeting Point for the walk is in the Main Market Square of Podgorze in front of St. Joseph's church at 11 a.m.
At 6 p.m there will be a meeting at the famous Schindler factory, which survived the war intact. At 6.30 the 'Schindlers List' film will be screened there.
Getting There
Getting to Podgorze is simple enough. On a warm day the most attractive approach is to walk down the Vistula River and then cross the Jozef Pilsudski Bridge (Most Jozefa Pilsudskiego). It's about a fifteen minute stroll from Wawel Castle (second bridge after Wawel). A lovely walk.
Alternatively you could just walk down the main avenue from Wawel down ul. Stradomska and then on down ul. Krakowska, before crossing the Pilsudski bridge. Also a good walk.
Otherwise you can jump a tram from the Old Town to Podgorze's 'Korona' stop (Tram no. 6, 8 or 9).
A Few Tips
If you're not with a guide the following places are well worth checking out:
1) Kopiec Krakusa: Burial Mound of Prince Krak - legendary founder of Cracow. Magnificent setting, equally magnificent view. Home of ancient, and recentlly revived pagan festival of Rekawka. No self-respecting druid should miss this treasure.
2) Liban Quarry: Immediately to the west of the mound - resembles something out of The Lord of the Rings.
3) St. Benedicts Chapel: Exquisite chapel above ulica Rekawka
4) Park Bednarski: Lovely park that was landscaped in 1896 on the site of a disused quarry.
5) St. Joseph's Church - Splendid Gothic church on the main market square of Podgorze.
6) Starmach Gallery: One of the best - arguably THE best gallery of contemporary art in Poland (ul. Wegierska 5)
7) Schindlers Factory: Which survived the war (See above for related event).
** Click on the Source Link below for pictures and more info**
Eating and Drinking
Surprisingly enough, Podgorze already has some great little places to eat and drink.
1) Ogniem i Mieczem is an award winning traditional Polish restaurant with a 17th century inspired interior. Certainly worth a look for the decor alone. (pl. Serkowskiego 7)
2) Cafe Rekawka is a very pleasant cafe (ul. Brodzinskiego 4b)
3) A Dong has the reputation of the best Asian restaurant in Cracow. Gloriously tacky interior that's straight out of a David Lynch film. (ul. Brodzinskiego 3)
4) Mesa is one of the top seafood restaurants in Cracow (ul. Zamoyskiego 52)
About Podgorze
Podgorze was initially founded in 1784 by the Austrian Emperor, Jozef II. This followed the first partition of Poland, when the Austrian border jumped all the way up to the southern bank of the River Vistula. The intention was to create a rival town to Cracow - hence the grandeur of much of the district's architecture.
With the complete fall of Poland at the close of the eighteenth century, there was no longer a need to rival Cracow, which spent most of the nineteenth century under Austrian rule.
During the late nineteenth century the area was known as an industrial district, mainly inhabited by workers, craftsmen and railway employees. However, before the last war much of the district had developed a more bourgeois flavour, with well-to-do Jewish businessmen coming to the fore.
Podgorze was to be at the heart of the coming storm. The centre of the district was made into a ghetto by the Nazis in 1941, and Jews from both Cracow and the city's environs were forced to move there. Conditions became increasingly cramped, and the following year, transports began to Belzec concentration camp. The ghetto was officially liquidated in 1943.
After the war Podgorze became a working class district again, as it remained until recent years. However, like neighbouring Kazimierz, it has recently become popular with artists searching for affordable rents and studio space.
A gradual regeneration now appears to be underway, including the renovation and expansion of memorials and museums of the wartime tragedy.
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