OK, so here's little secret. One of the most magical autumnal destinations in Poland is just down the road from Cracow at Ojcow. You may hear other rural spots being hyped each season, but it's hard to trump Ojcow at this time of year.
Jump on a bus and you'll be in the charming old village in a mere 40 minutes. Once there, you have acres of national parkland to explore, with magical paths though wooded valleys and enough Tolkieneque crags and boulders to hide a thousand orcs and ogres. This is very much fantasy country, and legends abound of gallant kings, noble spiders and sorcerers who fly around on giant cockerels. All true of course.
The jewel in the crown of the Ojcowski National Park is the magnificent Pieskowa Skala Castle, which is one of the best-preserved strongholds in Poland. It's straight out of Bram Stoker. Inside, you'll discover a branch of the Wawel Royal Castle Museum, and it has a kingly array of art and furniture on display.
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