Lajkonik Returns!
A fantastical rider is due to arrive on Cracow's hallowed Market Square this Thursday (2nd June). He will be followed by an eccentric band of musicians, not to mention a good many of the townsfolk themselves. This peculiar rider, who will be decked out in a pointed, wizard-like hat and lavish oriental clothing, may look like a potty fellow who has escaped from a nineteenth century circus, but in fact, he is a cherished figure in Cracovian lore.
Once on the square, the Lajkonik will be greeted by none other than the Mayor of Cracow. Then, following a custom which has been observed since time immemorial, the two will raise a toast to the city and its inhabitants.
The tradition of Lajkonik stretches back many centuries. During the medieval era, the Mongol hordes were the most continual threat to Cracow, and Tatar warriors succeeded in sacking the city on several occasions.
Legend has it that a crew of raftsmen once helped to vanquish a Tatar raiding party. They discovered the enemy camp in the nearby forest and pounced on the Mongol warriors in the dead of night.
Once the Tatars had fled, or, one presumes, met a rather sticky end at the hands of the raftsmen, the victors returned to Cracow, laden with booty. One of the most valiant raftsmen dressed himself up in the rich clothes of the Tatar general, and the heroes entered Cracow to the rapturous applause of the townsfolk.
The Lajkonik procession has been enacted for at least several centuries. The costumes have changed somewhat over the years, and the current garb of Lajkonik was designed by one of Cracow's favourite sons, the turn of the century artist Stanislaw Wyspianski (1869-1907).
The procession will begin tomorrow at one o' clock. As tradition dictates, the parade will commence in Zwierzyniec at the imposing Norbertine convent (ten minutes walk west along the river from Wawel Castle).
From there, Lajkonik and his merry men will prance their way to the Market Square (along Kosciuszki, Zwierzyniecka and Franciszkanska streets). On the way, Lajkonik will rap people with his mace - a sign of good luck - and he will be sure to take 'ransoms' from various shopkeepers too. Fond of the finer things in life, he often stops at liquor and food stores. Indeed, it's not every day that you can procure free booze from your compatriots.
As usual, the event is being held under the aegis of the Cracow History Museum, and if you're curious about Lajkonik, or indeed Cracovian folklore in general, their main branch (Main Market Square 35) is opening a major new exhibition on the subject this week. It promises to have a host of treasures relating to the weird and wonderful galaxy of Cracow Legends. And of course, Lajkonik himself will be a star feature.