Arriving in an unknown city can often be a little surreal, and Cracow is no exception. Dawn has just broken, and there you are, bleary eyed, about to be coughed out of the train by a surly, moustachioed fellow who looks like he might have been an extra from 'The Shining'.
The only people awake outside are the monks and nuns who are busying themselves after the first mass of the day, and those wayward souls who have perhaps consumed a tad too much vodka than is necessary for one citizen. The crows are cawing and there is a slight drizzle about - where does the noble traveller go from here?
Then there is the smiling old Polish lady with a strange glint in her eye. 'Come and stay at my house', she says. But why does she have a cat on her shoulder and a broom in her hand?
Cracow does have its gothic qualities, but once you're on your feet, you'll find that it's a city of many charms (and the gothic dimension is very much a part of them). The old ladies at the train station are not really witches either, indeed, many seem of a resoundingly sweet disposition (although sadly we cannot vouch that they live anywhere near the city centre). One thing that is certain though is that Cracow is a glorious place and absolutely not to be missed.
Allthesame, it can certainly be difficult trying to find your way amongst the thousands of guestrooms, bars and restaurants that have popped up across the city. The language is certainly not the easiest thing to grasp either. So where do you track down a good cheap meal or a cheap bed for the night?
For accommodation, we think that Nathan's Villa is a trusty option if being bang in the heart of the city is high on the agenda. Its just a short stroll from the Royal Castle. Other options that are within the city centre are Old Town Hostel, Cybulskiego and Anna's Hostel. All of these are very good value.
A hearty and very reasonable lunch can be had at several of Cracow's old milk bars (which are something of a classic experience in themselves). One of the best is U Babci Maliny, 'At Grandma Rasberry's', (ul. Slawkowska 17). Bar Grodzki is also a very Polish option (ul. Grodzka 47). More modern, and marvelously Hansel and Gretel in style is the self-service Hulaj Dusza (pl. Szczepanski 7) whilst down the street on Tomasza you'll find the Polakowski lunch bar, which has an amusingly over the top Moulin Rouge type decor, and very well-priced food. You should be able to get a wholesome and filling lunch at any of these places for around 12 zlotys (2.5 Euros).
As far as exploring the city goes, one of the great highlights will always be those happy accidents that you experience by chance. However, a couple of tips may help with the essentials.
During Summer, having a drink on the square (the Rynek) may seem like a very inspiring option. However, as is often the case in ye olde European cities, this is the most expensive place in town. However, if you know where to look, you'll find student prices, even right on the square. Pod Jaszczurami at No. 8 is a student club, and if you have something that resembles a student I.D, or you look the part, you'll be able to order rounds of beers at normal prices. Vis a Vis at No 29 is not too extortionate either.
On the subject of I.D, many of Cracow's excellent museums provide discounts for students ('ulgowy' means reduced), whilst the majority of museums are free on Sundays.
For something a bit out of the ordinary Cracow has plenty of tricks up its sleeve. Thus if you want to spice up your inter-railing odyssey with something decidedly far out, Nowa Huta may well fit the bill. This was one of only two Soviet ideal cities that were actually built, and it is just a twenty minute tram-ride from Cracow.
Besides visiting the town itself, it is often possible to visit the gargantuan steelworks (Nowa Huta actually means New Steelworks). They are now partly closed down, but they are amongst the most bizarre relics of Cold War Europe. Think Orwell meets Robocop meets Charlie and the Chocolate Factory gone wrong and you're on the way. Not jolly but certainly fascinating.
A fine antidote to urban excess would be the Ojcow valley, which is just over half an hour on the bus from Cracow. The whole area is a National park and completely unspoilt. Ojcow village itself is a quaint, Alpine sort of a place with a host of guesthouses (look out for 'noclegi' signs) where you can pick up a bed for thirty zloty or so. The woods make for great walks, whilst Pieskowa Skala castle is one of the best in this part of the country.
God speed, as they said in times of old!
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