The Rynek Reopens!
After three months of digging, drilling, hammering and general ordered chaos, Cracow's Main Market Square reopened for business this morning, decked out with a host of flags in the city's traditional colours, blue and white.
Within minutes of the railings coming down, Rynek life resumed as normal. At lunchtime, Cracow Life observed that a good number of citizens had already tried out the neat ashtrays that are attached to the space-age like chromium bins. A morose-looking student, who looked like he had just been unceremoniously dumped by his girlfriend, sat chewing a sandwich dejectedly on one of the sleek new marble benches. Before long, two accordionists had set up shop in the middle of the freshly paved arena, pounding out some rousing Slavic rhythms. Meanwhile, the square buzzed with life as Cracovians of all ages headed about their business.
Cracow's 'Rynek' (pr. Ri-nek) is the largest medieval plaza in Europe, encompassing some 200 metres squared. It was laid out following the Mongol invasion of 1257, and it remains the centre of the city's life until this day. In terms of sheer visual sweep, it's arguably the finest prospect in Cracow.
The general consensus is that the new paving is a marked improvement on the wobbly scenario of old. However, spoilsports that we are, we couldn't help noticing that not all of the novelties are worthy of applause (unless the intended effect was comedy that is). The new 'European Union' memorial for example is highly amusing. A few yards north of the venerable plaque recording national hero Kosciuszko's call to arms is a smaller plaque celebrating Poland's accession to the EU. The text is encircled by the EU's signature ring of golden stars, However, somehow the effect is lost, and if you switched the text from 'European Union 2004 ' to 'Arnold Schwarzenneger 2004' you'd have a perfectly delivered addition to the Hollywood Hall of Fame. It's pure Hollywood cheese. And one other peculiarity. Was it really necessary to have all those burgundy geometric patterns breaking up the sweep of the square?
Nevertheless, the Rynek does look pretty fine all things considered, and if the other half is done this well, there will be little cause for grumbling. Indeed, all those involved deserve a mighty round applause. Three months of crouching on the ground, laying each cobble one by one (sometimes during snow) is no small endeavour, and worthy of a stonking party for all concerned. Arnie would be proud.