What would make the perfect Polish Christmas prezzie? A jar of 'smalec' from Chlopskie Jadlo perhaps? Well certainly not for vegetarians, or anyone vaguely queasy about lard for that matter. So it's a tricky one then. However, Cracow Life is more than happy to untrickify the situation, and thus we've cobbled together some bodacious Christmas tips to help you sort the wheat from the chaff:
- First Things First -
The obvious place to start is the Christmas Market itself (where it's also worth trying the excellent 'grzaniec' mulled wine - if you like it you can find a bottle to take home at most liquor stores round town). A perfect place for present-hunting.
Then of course there's the Sukiennice (Cloth Hall), the huge, sweeping building that divides the Main Square. Inside, there are rows of stalls, selling everything from hand crafted chess sets to cosy wool-lined slippers from the mountains.
Around Town:
Food: Everyone loves food so why not play safe (or not as the case may be.....)
Sausages: Polish air-pilots stationed in England during the war became deeply home-sick about the lack of trusty 'kielbasa' from the motherland. The heros of the Battle Of Britain eventually went to extreme lengths to track down Mr. Porky, and the stories about clandestine sausage making have since passed into legend.
This year you'll find some stalls selling Polish kielbasa amongst the Christmas Markets on the square. Look out for 'wiejska', one of the most popular varieties.
Szarlotka: If you are confident of being able to transport it, one of Pod Aniolami's Apple Cakes would make a magnificent present. However, this could create comical (and potentially squashable) situations at the airport if you look a tad hippy dippy, as the cake could be seen as a cunning smuggling device in the eyes of the goodly customs officers. But what's life without risk? Buy that cake. (Pod Aniolami Delicatessen Ul. Grodzka 35)
Gingerbread: Ginger nuts should head for Torunskie Pierniki just off the Square. The proud bearers of a medieval tradition from the northern city of Torun, these guys are maestros of ginger munchies. Find their shop at the top of ul. Grodzka.
Chocolate: Try before you buy. The Wawel shop is a dangerously beguiling, Charlie and the Chocolate Factory place, and some varieties are very sickly. However, their Jacek bar (with orange fondant centre) is very tasty. And the Malaga chocolates (caramel with a hint of plum) aren't at all bad in small doses. . 'Pastylki Mietowe' (with fondant mint centre) are worth a try.
Rival brand Wedel also has a good range. Their classic bar 'Mleczna' (blue wrapper) is a good stocking-filler, as is the one with hazelnuts (green wrapper). The 'Orzechowa' fondant variety is also excellent (yellow wrapper).
For luxury chocolates, try the Likus delicatessen in the fancy mall on the Market square at no. 13. ( Head down to the bottom floor).
Smalec: And so we move from chocolate to smalec. Perhaps not the most beautiful combination, it can't be denied.
This is either the present for someone you really don't like at all (smalec is basically lard with a smattering of pork crackling) or one for the red-faced, hearty carnivore who couldn't care less about all that diet rubbish. Some people love the stuff (this scribbler's friends are deeply divided on the matter).
Smalec is served up as a starter in many Polish restaurants, and it can be delicious on hunks of bread with a sprinkling of salt and pepper.
Track down some pots at the popular Chlopskie Jadlo restaurants. ( ul. sw. Jana 3)
Drink:
Vodkas
The best Polish vodkas are horrendously expensive in the West, so here's your chance to find a real bargain:
Zubrowka (Bison Grass): A classic option. Great served neat from the freezer, or alternatively with apple-juice and a twist of lemon.
Krupnik: Very popular with ladies. Honey flavoured. Attractive bottle, as is the former.
Wisniowka: With cherry. Best served chilled.
Of the unflavoured varieties, you might try Pan Tadeusz, Chopin or Belwedere.
Mulled Wine
Grzaniec Galicyjski - A perfect Christmas choice - you can track down a bottle at most off-licenses. Simply heat and add a couple of cloves.
Jewellery
Amber, the 'gold from the Baltic' is a fine option for the fairer sex (or flamboyant dandies for that matter). It's amazing what the Poles can do with the stuff. Why not drop into one of the Mikolajczyki galleries ( ul. Florianska 42, ul. Kanonicza 22) or have a scout around the Cloth Hall. Dreamy earrings, necklaces and all manner of magical appendages.
Glass
Krosno is a pre-war company that's still conjuring up some stunningly elegant glasses and trinkets. Delicately crafted wine-glasses and champagne flutes for tiny prices. Their main shop is just north of St. Mary's Church on the Main Square at Plac Mariacki 1.
Pottery
Boleslawiec Pottery rustles up some delightful pieces, with everything from salad bowls to tea cups. Their blue and white spotty style is instantly recognizable. Folkish design at its best.
Books
If you have a bookworm in the family then you should head straight to Massoilt Books without further ado (if you are a bookworm yourself, bear in mind that you may find it difficult to leave - this one is a gem). Stacks of first rate stuff in translation, and much more besides. Try Ignacy Krasicki's fables (something of a Polish Aesop) as a childrens choice, or Czeslaw Milosz for grown-ups intrigued by Poland's tricky Twentieth Century. Track down this cafe cum bookshop behind the Philharmonic Hall at ul. Felicjanek 4.
Collectibles
Exporting pricey antiques requires a special permit but collectibles are absolutely fine. Head down to Kazimierz to root out the best Curiosity Shops. Stylish pre-war chocolate tins, clothes, silver cigarette cases and much, much more. Here are a few of the best: Purziczan - ul. Brzozowa 7, Antyki Starocie - ul. Jozefa 20, Stary Sklep - ul. Jozefa and last but not least, the basement shop of the Jewish Centre at ul. Meiselsa 17 - a huge treasure trove of charms and trinkets.
|