Polish Pantheon: A Hidden Cracow Gem
Six weeks ago one of Poland greatest poets was laid to rest in a mythical crypt on the banks of the River Vistula. Czeslaw Milosz, a Nobel Laureate, was ninety three when he passed away this Summer and his funeral was amongst the grandest that the city has seen in years. Several thousand mourners, including distinguished writers from across the world, followed the procession through Cracow's cobbled streets to the Church on the Rock, site of the martyrdom of St Stanislas, patron saint of Poland.
This ancient pilgrimage site is often overlooked by visitors to the city, tucked away as it is in a sleepy corner of Kazimierz. However, it's well worth a look, and not just for history buffs or lovers of literature, but also for anyone who likes beautiful old architecture and a touch of the mythical.
The Pauline crypt was originally re-opened in 1876 below the baroque Church on the Rock. It was designed as a pantheon for supremely distinguished figures in the arts and sciences. The crypt had originally contained the tomb of the legendary medieval chronicler Jan Dlugosz, who founded the monastery above in the fifteenth century. Dlugosz's is the eldest tomb in the small crypt, and the other twelve occupants were all nineteenth and twentieth century figures. Such is the calibre of the men buried here that it is some fifty years since the last entombment.
As it was, even Milosz himself had problems, although by this stage he had no say in the matter. His case was championed by the film director Andrzej Wajda in the wake of the poet's death (in fact, Wajda himself is a potential future candidate, although space is running out!). A host of university professors also joined the campaign to honour Milosz, although die-hard right-wingers claimed that the poet was tarnished by his brief flirtation with the communist party during the post-war years.
The crypt itself is beautiful. The walls are adorned with florid frescos that are typical of the Polish fin-de-siecle. It is open most days, and entry costs two zloty.
Other great names include the composer Karol Szymanowski (1882-1937), now a celebrated figure throughout the world, and Stanislaw Wyspianski (1855-1929), a renaissance type genius who shone in painting, play-writing, stained glass design and architecture. Legendary Polish actors, painters and poets occupy the remaining nine tombs, as well as the astronomer and mathematician Tadeusz Banachiewicz (1882-1954).
The Pauline church and crypt are located at the end of the sleepy lane, ulica Skaleczna. However, the church can also be reached by walking along the riverbank from the Royal Castle. It's a very pleasant walk. The White baroque church rears up on your left after ten minutes or so's stroll.
The figures in the pantheon are as follows:
Jan Dlugosz (1415-1480) Canon of Cracow, famous chronicler of Polish history (or myths!) and founder of the Pauline monastery
Lucjan Sieminski (1809-1877) Writer and literary critic
Jozef Ignacy Kraszewski (1812-1887) Novelist
Adam Asnyk (1838-1897) Poet
Henryk Siemiradzki (1843-1902) Artist
Stanislaw Wyspianski (1869-1907) Artist and Play-write
Jacek Malczewski (1855-1929) Artist
Karol Szymanowski (1882-1937) Composer
Ludwik Solski (1855-1954) Actor
Tadeusz Banaciewicz (1882-1954) Astronomer and Mathematician
Czeslaw Milosz (1911-2004) Poet and Writer
For more information about the church and the legend of St. Stanislas, click on the Source Link below.