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Cracow, Poland's ancient royal capital, is one of the great survivors of this part of Europe. And much like the embattled old countess, who managed to come through the war and the Soviet era, she is a proud city. Conservative in some ways, and with an eye towards tradition, Cracow also has an eccentric streak that can be enchanting.
Cracow has retained much of its splendour, yet there is a tranquillity here that can be disarming. And here lies one of the keys to the city's magic. It is the kind of place where every day you might stumble across something that you have not noticed before - a little baroque church, a hidden courtyard, or perhaps just one of the myriad gargoyles and sculptures that peer down from the city's houses. Cracow is a treasure trove, and a great advantage is that it can largely be explored by foot - there is no need to plunge yourself into a world of underground trains or buses.
In the guide you will find a range of the most intriguing landmarks, the lion's share of which can be found in three areas. First the Old Town, whose heart is the large Market Square or Rynek. Second, Kazimierz, which was once a cradle of Jewish culture and a separate town in its own right. Across the river from Kazimierz, the Podgorze district is just starting to get trendy and is well worth exploring. And finally Wawel, the seat of both the Royal Castle and the cathedral - the spiritual home of the nation. Whilst traffic is not a problem in these quarters, the rambunctious pigeons will certainly give anyone a run for their money - so get ready to duck.
Further afield, there are a number of places that are also well worth exploring, amongst which the salt-mines of Wieliczka and the lush valleys that surround Ojcow are both within easy striking distance.
Many visitors also come to Cracow to make their own private pilgrimage to Auschwitz and Birkenau.
Cracow has its faults, and it can be a melancholic, and at times stubborn city. There have certainly been dark chapters in its history. Yet all things considered, it makes for a deeply rewarding place to visit. | |
Above: Lifelike Apostles on the Royal Way
Below: Shelter from the midday sun in the arcades of the Cloth Hall 
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