Diabelska Kuchnia (The Devil's Kitchen) is one of those well-kept secrets where you can grab a cut-price lunch in the centre of town. Head over to the 700 year old Stary Kleparz farmers market and you'll find it to the left of the market proper. The restaurant is run by a bona fide Hungarian who married a Pole, so you'll get a taste of the real deal. In Winter their piping hot goulash soups are sure to warm the cockles, whilst the Lecso (Hungarian stew) will keep you well-filled for most of this day and the next. Dainty Hungarian folk patterns decorate the walls, whilst downstairs theres a small cellar. Crack open a bottle of Bulls Blood wine to round it all off.
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